Out of the hundreds of restaurants we’re likely to patronize, a few stand out for being above the ordinary. There’s a history, a family connection, and a unique perspective on hospitality. And we are fortunate to have enjoyed the food and atmosphere at Diamond Jim Brady’s Bistro in Novi. But more than customers, we consider them friends.
Jim Brady founded the original restaurant on the east side of Detroit in 1954, serving burgers, salads and other tavern food in a neighborhood hangout. Jim’s son Tom took over the business and moved it to Southfield, and eventually to Novi. Tom also had the good fortune to be married to a certified executive chef – the first female CEC in Michigan. Tom and Mary Brady built a faithful clientele with a menu that combined the traditional dishes from Detroit – the Seven Mile burger, caesar salad, chili – along with the bistro food that Mary brought to the kitchen. Tom was the affable host who greeted guests – nobody was a stranger more than once – and Mary kept the kitchen humming, turning out dishes tried and true as well as fast-forward cuisine.
We lost Tom in 2008, but Mary kept on cooking, and the bistro hardly missed a beat. Mary is incredibly resilient. The bistro has suffered numerous setbacks – the move to Novi in a prime spot in the Town Center next to a movie theater, then being evicted by construction of a new Walmart store, requiring a decision not just about where to move but whether to stay in business as a restaurant. The loss of Tom. And the pandemic, which has severely impacted all restaurants, driving many out of business. But Diamond Jim Brady’s has weathered them all, emerging stronger each time.
In addition to the original classics, Mary has her own take on traditional cafe fare. The humble tuna melt is amped up, served on a pita, garnished with jalapenos and gruyere cheese. A wet burrito is stuffed not with beef or beans but mashed sweet potatoes and topped with vegetarian chili. Fish and chips is made with top-quality cod, fried in a light tempura-style batter and accompanied with either seasoned French fries or the bistro’s housemade potato chips. In homage to her hometown of Buffalo, N.Y., Mary offers beef on weck and gives the Buffalo treatment to chicken wings and, frequently, cauliflower. A Cobb salad is transformed into a “she-she” hodgepodge, with greens, hard-boiled eggs, chickpeas, cukes, grape tomatoes and onion, tossed in a buttermilk ranch dressing. And humble meatloaf is made with ground turkey and forest mushrooms, blended with Gruyere cheese and served with gravy, green vegetables and creamy mashed potatoes.
Besides the burgers, salads and cafe fare, the standing menu includes dishes like steak Diane, Korean beef Bulgogi, potato-crusted Lake Superior whitefish and a culotte steak made with top sirloin. Weekly chalkboard specials include Creole red snapper, seared scallops, salmon Wellington, a vegetarian galette and medallions of pork tenderloin as well as comfort food like beef stew, pasta, and chicken Florentine.
When the pandemic shut everything down, Mary and her business partner, Sharon Juergens – also a Certified Executive Chef – dreamed up a way to get chef-quality food in the hands of faithful guests without being able to dine in. Instead of relying on hit-or-miss takeout business, they started “Let Mary and Sharon Cook”. Twice a week, they publish a menu and take advance orders for a limited number of entrees and source the ingredients. Then, in a quiet and empty kitchen, they prep, cook and assemble the orders, refrigerating the portions and delivering them to customers waiting in their cars on Wednesdays and Saturdays. We’ve ordered many times. Some of our favorites are New England clam chowder, a vegetarian stuffed poblano pepper, Vietnamese spring rolls, shrimp & grits, and seafood ravioli. Desserts include decadent chocolate bourbon walnut pie, chocolate bourbon cake with rum-laced whipped cream, and Italian amaretto pudding.
The bistro stayed open over the past year as much as the lockdown restrictions would allow. There were several months when no guests could be served on the premises, but when outdoor dining was approved, the patio that rings the restaurant was opened for business. It remained open through much of the winter with the help of an overhead heat system, portable heaters and patrons bringing blankets. Restrictions are loosening, and the dining room is at half capacity. We have one more shot to go, and then we’ll feel more comfortable about visiting our old favorites. Diamond Jim Brady’s is at the top of the list.